In this article
Written by Sameer
Reviewed on
Pearls, our moti, don't get priced the way mined gems do. There is no cut to judge and no clarity grade in the normal sense. The value lives in the nacre, the lustre, the shape and where the pearl grew. Once you know what to look at, you will see why two pearls of identical weight can sit at very different prices. That is what this piece walks through.
Natural, cultured or imitation
This is the first split and the biggest one. A natural pearl formed with no human help, and those are rare now; the old Gulf pearls that used to be traded as "Basra moti" were natural. Nearly every pearl sold today is cultured, which means a farmer started the process off. Imitations are glass or plastic beads with a pearly coating on top. The quick check at home is the tooth test: rub the pearl gently against the edge of your front teeth. Real pearls, natural or cultured, feel slightly gritty. Imitations feel smooth.
Salt water or fresh water
Freshwater pearls mostly come from mussel farms. They are produced in large numbers and are usually the most affordable. Saltwater pearls, such as Akoya, South Sea and Tahitian, grow in oysters, take longer to form and generally cost more at the same size.
What we look at in every pearl
- Lustre. How sharp and bright the reflections on the surface are. Good lustre is the strongest value factor of all.
- Nacre. The layered material the pearl is built from. Thick nacre gives a deeper glow and lasts better; thin nacre over a bead nucleus can wear through.
- Surface. Fewer spots, pits and bumps means a higher price.
- Shape. Perfectly round pearls are the rarest. Near-round, drop and button shapes cost less, and baroque shapes less again, though many people love them for exactly that irregular look.
- Size and colour. Prices climb fast as pearls get bigger, and a pretty overtone, a rose or silver tint for example, adds value.
Looking after it
Pearl is soft, 2.5 to 4.5 on the Mohs scale. It is better in a pendant or earrings than in a ring worn every day, and it must never go in an ultrasonic cleaner. Perfume, sweat and acids all dull nacre, so put your pearls on last and wipe them after you take them off.
Moti in tradition
South Asian astrology links pearl with the Moon, Chandra, and it is traditionally worn for calm, patience and emotional balance. These are beliefs, not promised results, so agree the weight, metal and finger with your astrologer first. Our rashi guide sets out the common pairings.
Before you hand over money
Confirm the pearl is real and not glass or plastic, that any dyeing or bleaching is disclosed in writing, and that the stated weight is right. We check every pearl and photograph each one alone. Browse our pearls, or compare sulemani agate and aqeeq. Urdu and English names are on our names page. We send from Karachi with Cash on Delivery, so Karachi customers usually have their moti in 1 to 2 working days, and Lahore and the rest of Pakistan follow shortly after.
References
